How to Start Seeds Indoors for the Garden.
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SOIL LESS SEED STARTING INGREDIENTS
I prefer to use a non soil mix when starting seeds. Here is what I use and why.
I have had my fair share of seed starting and the dreaded damping off disease that kills little seedlings because of soil born fungus. (see below) However, It is possible to sterilize your soil in the oven, if you cant afford to buy the non soil mixes. I put this info at the bottom.
FOR PRE-MIXED STORE BOUGHT SEED STARTERS.....Always read the label and look for an ingredients list. Most popular
brands have chemical fertilizers added that are unnecessary and will
defeat the purpose of growing organically.
What I do instead is buy single supplies and mix myself. I also add in organic nutrition. I suggest watering with a diluted natural compost tea, vermi-compost tea (worm casings) or a diluted sea kelp mix. Seeds actually do not require any fertilizers until they produce their first set of true leaves. In basic terms this means the second set of leaves you will see. The first leaves that appear are called “seed leaves” and these leaves feed the seedling until the first “true leaves”appear.
- 2 part peat or coir (Coir is a sustainable peat substitute made from
coconut husks and peat is made from bog material-both are organic)
- 1 part perlite (popped volcanic ash that creates good drainage)
- 1 part vermiculite (water absorbing material made from the mineral mica)
- Additionally, you may want to add dolomite lime to the mix ( 1 tbs. per 2 gal. mix)
Dolomite Lime is found in naturally occurring limestone deposits, and is used to raise
the pH of your seed starting media organically (especially if using peat
moss which is naturally acidic). Dolomite lime also provides calcium
and magnesium.
Use the ratio 2:1:1 for your mixture and pre-wet it with warm water. If you are making a large batch do it outside in a trash can or wheel barrel and a shovel, then add in the Lime. Its ok to guess if you want to mix it in the large container.
Note: use a particle mask while doing all your dry mixing. I usually wet it down before mixing it to keep the dust down. Make
sure to
mix it up well,
wet it all down so it's damp, but not soggy,
and it's ready to load into your planting trays. It's much easier
filling plastic trays with soil that is already the proper dampness.
Now, fill a test container with your mix
and check its drainage. Make sure you've made BIG holes for drainage.
The best holes are on the sides, just above the bottom. I snip with a
sharp pair of scissors, then jam the scissors in there and twist until its a good size hole. When you dump a lot of water into the container,
check that water is actually coming out of the holes. Tiny holes get
clogged with stuff, or water tension prevents drainage. Peat will be difficult to re wet if you let it dry out, so be sure to check every other day. Also remember.....
Damping off usually is caused by using a non-sterile mix and watering too heavily.
Never let water sit in the bottom of trays while you are trying to
germinate or while they are growing. If while germinating seeds you see
large drops condensing inside your plastic, or drops running down the
side of the plastic you have it too wet and the plastic needs to come
off or at least opened up to allow it to dry some.
I try to water as
much as I can from the bottom. I will add water to the trays the plants
are sitting in and watch the surface of the soil. As soon as you can
see some moisture wicking to the soil surface, drain all the water out
of the trays. As to when to water, watch the plants themselves. When
you start to see them droop just a little bit, it is time to water.
Keep trays warm, seeds moist, air circulating properly and 16 hrs of lights low down on plants for healthy and happy seedlings.
The Dreaded Damping-Off. What is it & how can you prevent it?
Damping-off is a term used for a variety of fungal problems that lead to sudden seedling death. Beginners and experienced gardeners alike are frustrated and disheartened when it strikes. The pathogens attack the tender stems and roots of the seedlings. Some seedlings look pinched at the base of the stem, others flop over, and some wither away entirely. Once the process is underway, it’s hard to save even a few of your plants. Prevention is the best cure.
#1. Sterilize
Sterilizing your seed starting mix reduces fungal spores and other troublemakers. Commercial seed starting mix isn’t necessarily sterile, especially once the bag has been opened.
You can sterilize potting mix in the oven, using pans or roasting bags with a thermometer to monitor internal temperature. Veteran seed starters advise heating the soil mix in a 200 degree (F) oven to an internal temperature of 180-200 degrees (F) for 30 minutes. Baking potting mix does have a certain odor that many people (or their spouses) object to.
I like using the microwave. I discovered the hard way that the potting mix must be moist.
Add 1 cup of water per quart or two of dry, soil-less mix. Work out any lumps or chunks of compressed mix. Additions such as moisture crystals, extra perlite, and time-release fertilizer pellets can be mixed in before microwaving. Put the mix into a microwave safe container with lid. I put my mix into a huge Tupperware bowl that holds nearly 2 gallons, but any microwave safe container with a lid will work.
Cover soil loosely, and microwave on high for 8 to 12 minutes, until you see steam condensing in droplets on the underside of the lid. Close the lid tightly and allow the mix to steam at least 10 more minutes as the mix begins to cool.
Steaming the potting mix also seems to “open up” the peat moss or coir so it absorbs water more readily. Although it won’t be strictly sterile once you start fooling with it, unused mix can be sealed up for later use.
Put that sterile potting mix into clean planting containers. If you’re reusing containers, clean them first with soapy water and bleach.
#2. Less water, more air
Wet conditions can promote damping off. Don't over water or MIST. Keeping your potting mix barely moist rather than soggy is essential to healthy seedlings. If you water from the top, water between rows of seedlings and try not to drench the tops of the plants. Bottom watering seems to help by keeping the soil surface a bit drier, also. Pour water into a tray containing the seedling pots, and let them soak up as much as they can through the holes in the bottom of the pots. After 15 minutes, pour off any excess so plants don't sit in water.
Good air circulation helps prevent damping off. I’m always tempted to cram as many plants as possible onto my light shelves, but overcrowding limits air flow.
A fan placed near your plants helps to keep the air moving.
Many people recommend removing germination domes and other covers as soon as seeds germinate or doing without covers altogether. I put lots of little ventilation holes in the plastic domes for my trays. The holes allow some air flow and keep the humidity from getting too high. I do remove the domes once seedlings have a sturdy set of leaves.
#3. Anti-fungal agents
Watering with an anti-fungal solution will also help protect your seedlings. One tablespoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide per quart of water is sufficient. You can also brew strong chamomile tea and add an ounce or two per quart of water.
Also, for your first round of watering.... consider adding 1 aspirin (speeds germination and increases the germination %) and 1 tsp. of epsom salt (magnesium) per gallon on the newly planted seeds. {FYI...1 aspirin preserves cut flowers.}
A one-time dusting of cinnamon or powdered charcoal on the soil surface can also be used as an anti-fungal agent. Adding a top layer of chopped sphagnum moss, sand, or chick grit may help discourage fungi from growing on the surface of your potting mix.
SO.....Sterilize your seed starting mix. Minimize wet conditions, and maximize air flow. Add an anti-fungal agent to your water.WEAR gloves too. These steps will go a long way toward preventing the Dreaded Damping Off, and you’ll have healthy seedlings to set out this spring!